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tutorial to make a slingshot rifle

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A PEBBLE SHOOTER TUTORIAL  
How to make a Baltic birch plywood « Starship » slingshot  
List of essential tools  
1. Safety equipment: protective breathing mask, safety glasses, and working gloves.  
2. A drill press or a drill placed inside a drill stand.  
3. An 8 mm drill bit for wood.  
4. A 4 mm drill bit for wood.  
5. A countersinking drill bit for wood screw holes.  
6. An electric jigsaw.  
7. A table mounted vise (helpful but not essential).  
8. A wood saw.  
9. A wood rasp  
10. A wood file.  
11. 100, 180, and 320 grit sandpaper.  
12. Screw drivers.  
13. A wrench for 8 mm hex nuts.  
14. A heat gun (to heat mold the PVC arm brace).  
List of essential materials needed (NB: all dimensions are metric):  
1. A Baltic birch plywood board 75 x 20 cm, minimum 18 mm thickness.  
2. A 20 cm long strip of flat PVC (35 mm width, 2 mm thick, if possible)  
3. A strip of plywood or other hard wood for the palm swell on the grip.  
4. A piece of scrap pine wood minimum 10 x 10 cm in size to make the PVC mold.  
5. 2 sections of 8 mm threaded rod of 7 cm length each.  
6. 2 hex nuts in 8 mm.  
7. 6 wood screws sized at 5 x 60 mm.  
8. 2 wood screws sized at 5 x 30 mm.  
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PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:  
1. Using a pencil, ruler, and a protractor, draw the shapes shown in the diagrams below on the  
Baltic birch plywood board. The downward angle of the starship slingshot section behind the  
grip is 10 degrees. NOTE: the length behind the grip section will depend on the holding arm  
length concerned: measure and adapt accordingly. NB: The diagrams are not to scale.  
Diagram A  
Diagram B  
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2. Secure the Baltic birch plywood board with the help of clamps. Using an electric jigsaw,  
carefully saw the shapes of diagrams A, B, and C drawn on the plywood board.  
3. Measure, draw, and saw out 2 Baltic birch plywood squares sized at 5 cm as shown below:  
Diagram C  
Place the cut out shapes on a drill press, and:  
4. Drill two 8 mm perforating holes as shown in diagram A. The front hole should be centered  
and placed 15 mm from the front edge, and the second hole should be centered and placed at  
35 mm from the front edge.  
5. Drill six 4 mm perforating holes in the slingshot fork unit as shown in diagram B (page 4). These  
holes will enable the 6 wood screws to be perpendicularly placed above and below the steel  
rods that connect the strengthening blocks with the main frame of the starship slingshot (see  
image 2)  
6. Drill two 8 mm perforating holes in both 5 cm sized plywood blocks as shown in diagram C.  
These two holes should be perfectly aligned with the two 8 mm holes drilled at the front end  
of the starship slingshot frame (image 1, page 4).  
The two 5 cm birch plywood blocks need to be connected to the front end of the starship slingshot  
frame by means of 2 perpendicularly placed 8 mm threaded steel rod sections and 8 mm hex nuts on  
each side.  
7. Cut 2 lengths of 8 mm threaded steel rod to 7 cm each, and connect the blocks to the front  
end as shown in image 1 on page 4. Check for perfect alignment of the front end of the starship  
slingshot frame and the plywood blocks, as this is where the slingshot fork unit will be placed.  
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Image 1 – strengthening lateral birch plywood blocks and steel rods at the front end.  
Image 2 – the slingshot fork unit attached by means of 6 wood screws (5 x 60 mm).  
8. Drill 4 mm sized holes placed above the center line of the two birch plywood blocks and the  
frontal surface of the starship slingshot frame as shown in image 2 (fork notch see page 6)  
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The grip unit forms an integral part of the main starship slingshot frame: its length, width, and  
ergonomics will depend on the size of the holding hand. Finger grooves and/or additional palm swells  
will improve holding ergonomics. The width of the plywood grip on the unit shown here is 5 cm.  
Image 3  
Image 4  
The rear arm brace should be fitted as closely as possible to the arm section just ahead of the arm  
joint to minimize slippage of the starship slingshot frame in conjunction with the centrally placed grip.  
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The arm brace can be made efficiently with a flat section of PVC (35 mm width, 2 mm thickness used  
here) molded into shape with a heat gun.  
9. Cut a 20 cm long section of flat PVC that will form a half circle once molded into shape.  
10. Make a basic mold by sawing a line and a half circle trough a flat piece of pine wood  
(minimum 10 x 10 cm, 3 cm thick) as shown (use a jigsaw):  
Diagram D  
Heating PVC (do this outdoors) - the heat gun airflow should be back and forth approximately 10 cm  
above the PVC section to heat it. 90 to 120 seconds should be sufficient. Use protective gloves to insert  
the heated PVC section between the two cut pinewood mold sections A and B as shown in diagram  
D, and compress the PVC section to form a half-circle. Allow for a cooling period. Using a 4 mm wood  
drill bit, drill two parallel perpendicularly placed holes in the center of the PVC half-circle (page 5).  
11. Disassemble the entire structure for sandpapering and the final finish of your choice.  
How to make the notch in the slingshot forks to attach flat bands  
Image 5 – Mark a measured line on all sides of both fork limbs (1 cm from the fork tip edge).  
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Image 6 – slingshot fork inner section. A secure band attachment is essential.  
Image 7 – ensure that the lines on all sides of both fork tips match up.  
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Image 8 – Saw to 1 mm depth along each line on all sides before using the wood files.  
Image 9 – Use the edge of the files to expand the incision on all sides.  
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Image 10 – Use a round wood file to create a 1.5 to 2 mm deep for a safe band attachment.  
Image 11 – Attach flat bands using the wrap & tuck method. Wear safety glasses when shooting!  
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Thu, 01/02/2020 - 06:26

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