This could be an alternative (attaching it with zip ties through the gaps). It looks that in this case attaching the arrow rest might prove trickier.
Apparently, this type of arrow rest does not reduce the arrow speed, due to the gaps for the fletching. I assume the tradeoff must be reduced durability (maybe less support too, as it has less whiskers).
I prepared the set in the picture. The ‘Frame’ is 20.5 x 1.4 cm, the pouch is 7 x 1.4 cm. I used 2 pieces of 22.5cm, 1745 tube (measured before tying the tube). I tied the tube on the ‘Frame’ leather piece from opposite sides so that when bending the leather in a ‘V’ shape, the tube would come over the top in both ends.
This ‘Leather Frame’ is much more comfortable to me than bare tube. It does not roll from the finger or uncomfortably press on the ring finger or little finger. Also, because the leather is not stretching and will not roll, I can form the slingshot frame with my fingers before pulling the pouch back. I find this more intuitive (probably, because I come from a non-frameless slingshot).
Now, while I think this is a very interesting concept, I am still not fully convinced. This slingshot is very simple and very lightweight, but I can draw only half the weight I normally draw, and it feels awkward. Also, after not so many shots my left hand starts hurting from the pull (I guess this is just a matter of training the hand and getting practice).
Final thoughts: I would go with a non-frameless slingshot whenever possible, for the increased draw weight. I also like my frames (from an aesthetical point of view), and I would like to build my collection up over the time.
So, for me the frameless slingshot is another option, but definitely not my first option. I would rather take with me something like the POM X6 slingshot (incredibly light and quite compact), than just go with a frameless slingshot.
Hi Mansell, thanks for your insight!
The tube I was using had a length about 40cm (tube only), which is the same length I use for my frame slingshots. With 40cm I have trouble going to full draw length, I think I should add 3-4cm (for the tube wrapped in the hand).
I realized that pulling the tube before placing the thumb and index fingers (making the 'frame') helps, but it gets uncomfortable, as the tube presses into my ring finger.
This morning I came with an idea I found interesting: to have a piece of leather for the area that wraps into my hand. This would be like a 2-hole leather pouch (please see the picture), but much longer.
I think this would prevent tube rolling and be more comfortable on my ring finder, while still being a Frameless slingshot (minimal bulk, minimal weight). The idea is basically to have a flat band in the hand, and not a tube. The fact that the leader will not stretch may make it more comfortable, too.
I will try to put this idea to test in the next days.
I tried the idea of frameless slingshots a while back, when I first came across the idea, and I gave it another shot this afternoon.
Using 1745 tubes I find it hard to keep the tubes from rolling off my thumb. I need a couple attempts for creating the ‘frame’ for each shot. I also find that, as you need to stretch the tubes before placing the thumb and index fingers, the tubes press into my ring finger and become uncomfortable after a few shots.
Finally, I can’t use as heavy a draw as I do with my frame slingshot, which has 2 loops (4 strands) of 1745 tubing. For the frameless slingshot I tried with 1 loop (2 strands) of 1745 tubing, and I still had a hard time reaching the full draw (probably because I would need a bigger loop, to compensate for the area of the loop that is held by the hand).
Watching some videos on YouTube, I saw that people tended to use longer loops, and not so heavy a draw, so that might be the trick. Flat bands would also be a big help to keep the band form rolling, and to spread the pressure on the ring finger (unfortunately, I don’t have any flat bands to give it a try).
I use 1745 Dankung tubes (traditional, black) with 10-12mm steel balls. I use 4 strands (1 loop on each side of the pouch, attaching to the slingshot 'ears').
These tubes are quite powerful, and they last a lot. They also give ample warning when they are wearing out (when the tubes are degrading they look softer, and the surface becomes irregular, wrinkled). After that, a small tear appears, but it progresses very slowly, it does not snap. I usually replace the tubes when the tear reaches 1/3 of the tube, to avoid issues. Usually the tubes wear first in the middle of the loop, where the rubber rubs the slingshot frame.
I should add that I don’t have much experience with flat bands or other tubes, but I am completely happy with the 1745 tubes.
From left to right (and also in order of preference):
- Polished Stainless Steel X6 slingshot (ergonomic, with grooves).
- POM (Polyoxymethylene) Plastic X6 slingshot (ergonomic, with grooves).
- General Dankung Hunting slingshot (straight, no grooves).
The General slingshot is the first one I bought, about 5-6 years ago, while both X6 slingshots are much more recent (bought a few months ago). The Stainless Steel X6 slingshot is my favorite, but I like all 3 slingshots quite a bit. I also use all 3 with not wrapping at all. By the way, I tried to do a lengthy review of each slingshot.
My draw is 28-29 inches, too, so to my it applies perfectly.