Yup..i did shoot with 1745 with 9.5mm steel balls be4 but the tube was wat too powerful for the size of steels ball than i change to 2040 feel much better, 1745 + 10 - 12mm steel balls + head shot = GG for those pesky Rabbits or Rats.
Oh Yes..i've made a frameless slingshot with 1745 tube be4 it dose get hard to do a full draw, i've also had the tube rolling off the thumb as well i just draw slowerly and pull the tubes be4 making the fork with finger than open up the fork, i've done some "research" that those ready made frameless slingshot tube are mostly between 20 - 22cm see if that helps.
These setups I use for 3/8" steel and for M8 hex nuts.
Both works very well.
I tried the idea of frameless slingshots a while back, when I first came across the idea, and I gave it another shot this afternoon.
Using 1745 tubes I find it hard to keep the tubes from rolling off my thumb. I need a couple attempts for creating the ‘frame’ for each shot. I also find that, as you need to stretch the tubes before placing the thumb and index fingers, the tubes press into my ring finger and become uncomfortable after a few shots.
Finally, I can’t use as heavy a draw as I do with my frame slingshot, which has 2 loops (4 strands) of 1745 tubing. For the frameless slingshot I tried with 1 loop (2 strands) of 1745 tubing, and I still had a hard time reaching the full draw (probably because I would need a bigger loop, to compensate for the area of the loop that is held by the hand).
Watching some videos on YouTube, I saw that people tended to use longer loops, and not so heavy a draw, so that might be the trick. Flat bands would also be a big help to keep the band form rolling, and to spread the pressure on the ring finger (unfortunately, I don’t have any flat bands to give it a try).
X6
X6 POM (Brown)
Luck Rings
Tibetan Antelope
Seljan OTT Comp Slant
Simple Shot The Torque
Wasp Delta Wing
Wasp UniPhoxx
I use 1745 Dankung tubes (traditional, black) with 10-12mm steel balls. I use 4 strands (1 loop on each side of the pouch, attaching to the slingshot 'ears').
These tubes are quite powerful, and they last a lot. They also give ample warning when they are wearing out (when the tubes are degrading they look softer, and the surface becomes irregular, wrinkled). After that, a small tear appears, but it progresses very slowly, it does not snap. I usually replace the tubes when the tear reaches 1/3 of the tube, to avoid issues. Usually the tubes wear first in the middle of the loop, where the rubber rubs the slingshot frame.
I should add that I don’t have much experience with flat bands or other tubes, but I am completely happy with the 1745 tubes.
1632 Single/Pseudo for BB’s & 6mm plastic
1632 Double 6mm
2040 Double great all-round (9.5mm)
1842 Single/pseudo (9.5mm)
36-rare rose wood hunting slingshot($53)
37($31)
Hi Mansell, thanks for your insight!
The tube I was using had a length about 40cm (tube only), which is the same length I use for my frame slingshots. With 40cm I have trouble going to full draw length, I think I should add 3-4cm (for the tube wrapped in the hand).
I realized that pulling the tube before placing the thumb and index fingers (making the 'frame') helps, but it gets uncomfortable, as the tube presses into my ring finger.
This morning I came with an idea I found interesting: to have a piece of leather for the area that wraps into my hand. This would be like a 2-hole leather pouch (please see the picture), but much longer.
I think this would prevent tube rolling and be more comfortable on my ring finder, while still being a Frameless slingshot (minimal bulk, minimal weight). The idea is basically to have a flat band in the hand, and not a tube. The fact that the leader will not stretch may make it more comfortable, too.
I will try to put this idea to test in the next days.